A Wonderful Week in Cusco

Seven short days here in Cusco and I feel more at home than a mouse in his hole. The lush green hills of the Andes cradle the city, and deep valleys disperse from every side like the many veins and arteries of a heart. Brown, silty rivers are the blood that rushes through them, carrying the fertile components of earth and water, and providing life of all sorts an opportunity to flourish and strive. The mountains here radiate with a soul of their own, and it is not hard to see why the human race was able to achieve such undefiable feats of engineering and architecture in these very same valleys so many years ago. Now, as I walk to work each day, I breathe in the same air and kick the same soil that saw some of the greatest civilizations in history rise and fall, and only they can hold the knowledge that still boggles some of the most powerful minds of today. 

The people here share the same passion for life that their ancestors seemed to possess, which is palpable through every interaction I have with them. They are friendly and happy, and enjoy welcoming gringos with a smile and a generous offer on some "original" art. Since I arrived last Monday, I have met more friends than I can count, and the abundance of backpackers and tourists also provides an international twist that makes for exciting company no matter the occasion. A trip to the main square on the afternoon of our arrival revealed the massive and intricate decor of several cathedrals, their huge stone walls so incredibly engraved that they look like they have been sculpted from clay. As we walked away from the plaza, we found ourselves in the narrow, winding streets of cobblestone that snake through the sea of red-tiled roofs like the rivers of the surrounding hills. Again and again, the seemingly endless corridors would open to reveal yet another plaza, boasting a fountain or a statue or a park. The frequent rain showers leave the grass long and the roofs spotted with lush green moss. Beautifully carved wooden balconies line the upper levels, and they provided a perfect spot to have a drink and take in the view. After getting some supplies, we headed home to enjoy a dinner of  rice, potatoes, vegetables and steak all topped off with a delicious pumpkin sauce. Already, I could not have been happier to be here in Cusco.

The next morning I awoke and enjoyed the luxury of a warm shower. Not long afterwards, a staff member from Projects Abroad arrived at the house and we began our orientation. The backdrop of clouds dripping over the hills in the early morning light made the fifteen minute walk to work seem almost surreal. Brightly colored flowers that lined the roads still sparkled with drops of dew, and even as we walked under bridges and across busy express ways, the natural beauty far overpowered the sights and sounds of a burgeoning city. When we arrived at the office- a small apartment in a nice neighborhood- a gardener turned from his vibrant collection of flora to greet us with a smile. After complimenting his work, we headed inside to go over the program expectations, as well as some basic strategies for teaching English. A walk to the school afterwards would complete our orientation, and I headed home to enjoy a long afternoon of good food and much needed relaxation. 

On Wednesday, we didn't have to go to work because there was a social event planned that afternoon. One of my roommates and I decided to wake up anyways and accompany our homestay mother on a visit to a local elderly home, where we helped some residents with a few games of bingo. They were all very sweet and curious about my life back home. We shared stories and laughs as the numbers rolled one by one out of the wheel, and the boards slowly filled up. When one of the men I was helping got a full bingo, it was interesting to see him rewarded with batteries, either AA or AAA depending on what sort of radio he had. After he slowly hobbled away, batteries in his hand and a grin on his face, we packed up and left, not forgetting the wonderful insight we had gained by interacting with the oldest and wisest members of the culture. We then walked to a nearby bus station, where we loaded in a van and headed to Urubamba. The two hour drive was one of the most stunning I have ever experienced! We climbed to the top of multiple plateaus that offered views of jutting, snow capped peaks in the distance. As we came closer and closer to one of those jagged, rocky spires, we suddenly descended into a deep valley with a wide, flat bottom, where the small town was nestled up against a river. Unfortunately, the bridge into town was not suitable for vehicles, and we had to get off the van and walk across, where we got a small rickshaw taxi to the main square. From there we headed to the local market, which was obviously the busiest place in town. The big open shed housed hundreds of vendors, each overflowing with colorful vegetables, spices, candy, clothing, flowers and pretty much anything else you could ever ask for. As we ventured into the butcher section (which took up one whole side of the shed) we saw carcasses of all sorts, including cows, pigs, llamas, and guinea pigs. On one table rested what seemed to be the brains of a cow sitting right beside the heart, which is supposed to be about the best part of the animal. A popular dish here, the beef heart is sometimes even served on a stick, and is supposedly tender and flavorful. After the market, we stopped for a quick lunch and went to meet the rest of the group, who were arriving on a later bus. Once they got there, we headed up the hill on what turned out to be an extremely steep and challenging climb. The ascent was relentless, and my lungs certainly noticed the lack of oxygen as we climbed to about 11000 feet of elevation. The summit made the climb worth every step, and as the sweat evaporated in the cool breeze, my eyes feasted on a 360 degree view of snow covered peaks towering over massive green mounds of earth. I could not resist the urge to let out a booming, barbaric yell that echoed across the entire valley, bouncing off the walls of nature and man alike. The descent was quick and easy, and after crossing town, we once again traversed the bridge connecting Urubamba with the outside world. As the sun dipped behind the hills, we boarded a public bus headed back to Cusco. Unbeknownst to us, the driver seemingly had no knowledge of basic physics, and as we barreled around sharp curves and bombed down steep hills, I could not have been more anxious to see the city lights appear in the distance. Finally, they did, and a few minutes later we were off the bus and out for a pizza dinner, accompanied by a Peruvian flute band. After dinner, we headed home for some much needed rest. 

On Thursday, I returned to work for some much needed advice on basic teaching strategies, and helped develop a pretest to determine what level of English the teachers were at. After work, we went to the plaza to enjoy the international company and a drink. It was there that we found out about the pub crawl that evening, which turned out to be an extravaganza of fun, laughter, and dance. The group consisted of five folks from Australia, one from New Zealand, one from Denmark, and two of us from the states, as well as our Peruvian guide. I won't go into the details, but there was lots of table dancing and face painting, and billiards of course. The entire next day was designated recovery time, as we had to rest up for the following day, which so happened to my birthday. 

Saturday began with cake and song, as my homestay family and roommates gathered around the small kitchen table to sing me a beautiful, bilingual rendition of 'Happy Birthday'. The cake didn't turn out to be the most filling breakfast, so after an hour or two we headed to town for lunch. We decided to explore the many narrow streets that surround the square, and eventually stumbled into a humble abode that was tucked in an alley about three blocks from the plaza. Inside, I scored a three course meal of soup, al paca, and fruit salad for about five American dollars, which quickly made up for the unsubstantial yet quite enjoyable breakfast. With our bellies full, we decided to go for a hike up one of the nearby hills, to El Christo Blanco. Once again, the lack of oxygen burned my lungs and muscles alike, but when finally at the top, a postcard worthy view restored both my body and mind. An afternoon thunderstorm pranced across the valley below, and it began to rain as we sat huddled under an umbrella, humbled by the unbelievable forces of nature. We returned home for a delicious meal and some rest before heading out for a night on the town. The hours to follow are mostly a blur, but I made it safely back to the house at about 7 the next morning. Rejuvenation was in store, and a lazy Sunday was exactly what I needed, so I spent the day resting and playing the guitar, with the occasional snack in between.

It was time to get down to business the following morning, and we headed to school to administer the exam we had written the previous Thursday. It was quite a turn of the tables to be giving a test to teachers after all the years of being on the other end. After all of the teachers were finished, we returned to the office to go over the tests and see where our "students" stand. We waited to be split into pairs and assigned to classes, and I soon found out that I would be teaching the most basic class... alone. This was a little overwhelming at first, as I knew I would have to truly put my knowledge of Spanish to the test, because none of my students speak a lick of English. I planned my first lesson around the alphabet, and wrote a short dialogue to help with pronunciation. As I walked to the school the next morning, the nerves accumulated in my stomach, and I began to wonder if I was cut out for the job. What if I can't answer their questions? What if they don't want to learn? What if my lesson plan fails? All of these questions are probably pretty common on any teachers first day, let alone a nineteen year old's first day teaching in a foreign country, in a foreign language, to people who are fifteen years older than him. Not to mention that they are trained and experienced teachers and I have absolutely no background in the field. Despite all of these worries, the day went fine, even though I had to improvise for the second half of the morning. After work I hurried to the office to plan a much more extensive lesson, in hopes that I wouldn't be in the same situation the next day. 

Today, the lesson went much better, and with a cooler head, I was able to guide my students to a better understanding of basic terms and ideas. I have a feeling that from here on out, the lessons will only be easier and easier, both to plan and to deliver. My partner will arrive next week, and having a second teacher in the classroom will make a huge difference. I can already sense my Spanish improving greatly, and am guessing I'll be a pro after the next fifteen lessons. 

I hope you enjoyed this edition of "Just Passin' Through"! Keep an eye out for updates on the many delightful adventures to come. This week was an excellent start to four months of mind expanding experiences and life changing awesomeness. So long!